Where's Johnny Jet: In Lincolnshire on the Da Vinci Code Trail

Cheers from the English countryside! We're in the middle of a three-country trek through Europe, following the path of Dan Brown's novel and upcoming major motion picture, The Da Vinci Code (DVC). This week we travel from London to Lincoln, England, slowly making our way up to Scotland. If you are in a hurry or have ADD (like me), there's another 2-minute Johnny Jet video at the end of this week's story.

London to Lincoln

The best way to get to Lincoln from London is by train. It departs from King's Cross Station, and requires a change in Newark. Total travel time is around two hours. You can buy tickets from RailEurope.com (TIP: On RailEurope.com purchase a BritRail Pass. You can go all the way up to Edinburgh, or another place or two in the UK -- it's a better deal than buying a point-to-point ticket). Like fools, my tour group decided to hire a van and a driver, and fight London's horrendous traffic. Web lost. The 135-mile drive took 4 1/2 hours. Ouch! However, I did pass time savoring my delicious and surprisingly reasonably priced gourmet sandwich from Harrods Food Hall. Who knew Harrods could be reasonable? On top of that, our driver entertained us with his English humor. About 3 hours into the trip the driver got on his microphone and said, "We are going to take the next service stop for a pee and a sandwich." How funny is that?

Why Lincolnshire

Lincolnshire (Here's a map), Britain's fourth largest county, has been visited by kings and poets. It boasts ancient churches, country houses, lush farmlands and tradition. It's also where Ron Howard filmed a good portion of the Da Vinci Code movie. That followed London's Westminster Abbey rejection of the film's proposal (calling it "inappropriate"). I am sure Ron and his company were bummed at first, but this is a perfect example of everything happening for the best. Had it not been for the rejection, most people (especially me) might never have been exposed to this region, let alone visited it. That would have been a shame. As you are about to see, this area is full of allure and good times. We owe a debt of thanks to the DVC movie for putting Lincolnshire (especially Lincoln) on the checklist of thousands of travelers as a destination itself.

Lincoln

Lincoln (Here's a map) was once a bustling port and a thriving commercial and trading center, with a population between 6,000 and 8,000. That made Lincoln one of England's largest cities. Long before that it was a Roman town (here's a list of Roman sites), and a retirement community for Roman soldiers. Today Lincoln is a town of 86,000 people -- about the size of Norwalk, Connecticut where I grew up. I mention this because Lincoln reminded me a lot of Norwalk, probably for its energy as an up-and-coming town. When I arrived just after dark my first impression was of Nantucket (link to Nantucket story). I had no idea this place had cobblestone streets and so much charm. What a pleasant surprise!

Where to Stay

The White Hart Hotel has 48 rooms. It's regarded as the best place to stay in Lincoln, and the location is probably why. It's right between Lincoln Cathedral and Lincoln Castle (the two main attractions, each only a block away). This 3- star hotel sits on historic ground. King Richard II stayed in an earlier building on this site in 1372. If King Richard is not good enough for you, how about this: The Da Vinci Code movie cast stayed here for five nights last August. Tom Hanks and his family stayed in room 371, Ron Howard was in room 400, Audrey Tautou that little French hottie was in Room 350, Jean Reno was in room 205, and Sir Ian McKellen had room 204. In case you're wondering: Johnny Jet slept in room 154 ;-). My large junior suite had spotless bathroom and twin beds. The White Hart should be regarded as an inn, not a hotel, because that's what it feels like. It was very cozy and old, and the creaky floorboards and musty smell reminded me of childhood vacations at the Ocean House in Watch Hill, Rhode Island. Rates begin at £55 ($95) and include breakfast. TIP: Don't forget electric plug adaptors for your laptop (internet access costs $16 a day). White Hart Hotel, Bailgate, Lincoln, Lincolnshire; tel. 1522-526-222 (outside UK 44-1522-526-222).

Ghost Tour

A town so full of history has to be haunted. What better way to hear ghost stories than going on Margaret Greene's Original Lincoln Ghost Walk? Tom Hanks and his family felt the same way, taking a 90-minute tour themselves. The tour was a great (and spooky) introduction to the city. We picked the perfect time: a cold, misty, foggy, mysterious night that had just as much personality as our guide. Margaret told all kinds of spooky stories. She saved the scariest ones for last -- and they happened to be about my hotel. GULP! The freakiest was that the White Hart has a room locals call "the sad room." On four different occasions, people died there from gunshot wounds to the head. Yikes! The Original Lincoln Ghost Walk costs £4 ($7). Tel.: 1522-874-056 (outside UK: 44-1522-874-056).

The Sad Room

The first thing I did when the tour was over was run to the front desk. I showed my room key to the clerk and asked if room 154 was the "sad room." The clerk was stunned (probably wondering how I knew about the sad room). She paused and shook her worried head "no." I walked up the narrow, winding stair case to my room, not sure whether to believe her. Later that night I tried to sleep, but I kept hearing noises. It felt as if there was someone -- a ghost -- in my room. At one point my mind really played tricks on me. Just as I was about to fall into deep sleep I heard a noise. I opened my eyes and saw a flash above the door. I was afraid to get up and turn on the light, so I just lay on my back with the covers pulled up to my chin. My heart beating so rapidly that I could see the covers bob up and down. Two days later, when I checked out, I asked a different front desk clerk to give it to me straight: Which room is the "sad room"? He said, "room 154 --- your room." Before I fainted he said, "Just kidding -- it's room 255." Phew!

The Old Bakery

After the Ghost Walk I could honestly say I needed a good "pee and a sandwich" myself. A great place for dinner is The Old Bakery. This small, award-winning eatery just a few blocks from the hotel was a favorite of the film's stars (they all signed a copy of the Da Vinci Code book, which will be auctioned for charity at the time of the film's release). The chef/co-owner is Italian, but you won't find a lot of pasta on the menu. Just good ol' Mediterranean and local dishes like roast "Lincoln Red" sirloin of beef with Yorkshire pudding and gravy. They also have a variety of addictive homemade breads. The Old Bakery, 26/28 Burton Road, Lincoln; tel. 1522-576057 (outside UK 44-1522-576057).

Epernay

I was pleasantly surprised by how good the food was in Lincoln -- all of England, in fact. Everyone used to say that English food was bad, but that's not the case anymore. A perfect example is Epernay. This seafood restaurant was so good that Ron Howard raved about it to Tom Hanks. The following night Tom and his family dined there. If you're a landlubber like me, don't worry; they serve more than seafood. And save room for dessert, because the sticky pudding is ridiculously delicious. Epernay, St Paul's Street, Bailgate, Lincoln; tel. 1522- 569284 (outside UK 44-1522-569284).

Browns Pie Shop

Browns Pie Shop is a stone's throw from the White Hart. Though called by many "the best restaurant in Lincoln," it is not overpriced. It's small though, so make a reservation. Browns Restaurant & Pie Shop, 33 Steep Hill, Lincoln; tel. 1522-527330 (outside UK 44-1522-527330).

Lincoln Cathedral

The highlight of Lincoln is the Cathedral. Regarded as one of Europe's finest Gothic cathedrals, its four massive transepts dominate the Lincoln skyline for miles around. The moment I stepped into the cathedral I had the same reaction as every first-time visitor: "Wow!" This 480-foot-long, brightly lit place is amazing. After Westminster Abbey (which is longer but narrower) shot down Ron Howard's request to film there, the Lincoln Cathedral welcomed them with open arms. That caused a lot of controversy, but the Dean of Lincoln posted a brilliant statement on their website describing why they allowed filming. He said in part: "The Da Vinci Code stimulates debate and the search for truth and we are glad to be part of this process. The book claims that the church has suppressed important facts about Jesus. The way to counter this accusation is to be open about the facts as we understand them and welcome vigorous debate. This is part of the Cathedral's mission -- to get people talking about the truths of the Gospel. Our Bishop has said, "People have been coming to Lincoln Cathedral for centuries in search of the Lincoln Imp. Through the warmth and friendliness of their welcome and the challenge of the building, they have gone away having found God." There can be no better place for the Da Vinci Code to be filmed." If you're wondering, here's an explanation of the Lincoln IMP.

DVC Cathedral Tours

The people in Lincoln are no dummies. Allowing filming was one of the best PR decisions they could have made (in addition to their £100,000 fee). Beginning in May, when the film is released, the cathedral will receive worldwide attention. On May 15 the cathedral will begin its own Da Vinci Code tours, Mondays through Saturdays at 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. One of the highlights will be a small exhibition of set photography and props, showing how the cathedral interior was transformed into Westminster Abbey. They had to remove the chandeliers (Westminster doesn't have them), and to the delight of the church the DVC crew cleaned them -- no easy or inexpensive task -- before putting them back up. Admission into the Cathedral: adults £4 ($7); children 5-12 £1 ($1.73). There is no additional charge for tower tours. The Lincoln Cathedral, 4 Priorygate, Lincoln; tel. 1522-544544 (outside UK 44-1522-544544), e-mail: visitors@lincolncathedral.com.

Lincoln Castle

The Lincoln Castle is not in the Da Vinci Code book or movie, but I'll mention this 900-year-old structure because it's only a block away. Construction began in 1068, two years after the Battle of Hastings, by William the Conqueror. The castle has almost always been used as a court and a prison (you can still see the old prison buildings). Today it's still a working Crown Court, and the Magna Carta --one of only four surviving 791-year-old documents sealed by King John -- is on display. It's there thanks to Hugh of Wells, Bishop of Lincoln and one of the witnesses when it was drawn up in 1215. Admission: adults £3.70 ($6.40), family (two adults and two children) £9.60 ($16.70). Lincoln Castle, Castle Hill, Lincoln; tel. 1522-511068 (outside UK 44-1522-511068), e-mail: lincoln_castle@lincolnshire.gov.uk.

Burghley House

Less than an hour's drive on the other end of Lincolnshire (approximately 90 miles north of London) is Stamford's Burghley House. This is another jaw- dropping experience. It's one of the largest and grandest houses of the first Elizabethan Age. Built between 1555 and 1587, it has 35 major rooms on the ground and first floors. There are an additional 80 lesser rooms, as well as hallways, corridors, bathrooms and service areas. Talk about a pimp daddy house! The place may look familiar, because it was used in the recent remake of "Pride and Prejudice" (link to Pride And Prejudice Info). The interiors will also be featured in the Da Vinci Code movie as Castel Gandolfo (the Pope's summer residence). Filming here took two weeks, and it's worth a tour. In honor of the film the Burghley house has created its own "Burghley Code." Visitors can crack its code through clues in the 17th-century Italian paintings on display in the state rooms. Be sure to walk the grounds, and look for the 300-plus fallow deer that roam around. Open daily except Fridays from April 1 to October 29. Admission: adults £9 ($15.60), children (5 to15) £4 ($7), families £22 ($38). The Burghley House, Stamford, Lincolnshire; tel. 1780-752451 (outside UK 44-1780-752451).

Time Out for Lunch

Eat lunch at the Orangery Restaurant, a café in the Burghley House that serves good, reasonably priced food. They even have venison. Hmmm . . . I wonder where they get it from?! Orangery Restaurant; tel. 01780 752451 (outside UK 44-1780-752451).

Belvior Castle

Not in Lincolnshire, but a 30-minute drive from the Burghley House in nearby Leicestershire is the Belvoir Castle. It's pronounced Beaver Castle, but Belvoir dates from Norman times and means "beautiful view"). Although only exterior (helicopter shots) of this castle were used in the movie (as Castel Gandolfo), if you come all the way out here you might as well go inside. I don't recommend the free guided tour, unless you have plenty of time. My favorite moment -- besides running into the Duchess of Rutland (she lives in the north end of the castle, with her Duke husband and three children; it's been an ancestral home for over 1,000 years) -- was the entrance, which was full of weapons. I also enjoyed the main gallery, including Pieter Coecke van Aelst's "Last Supper" painting. Open April 1 to September. Closed Mondays and Fridays. Admission: adults £10 ($17.30), students and senior citizens £9 ($15.60), families (two Adults, three children) £26 ($45). Belvoir Castle, Grantham, Leicestershire, tel. 1476-871000 (outside UK 44-1476-871000), e-mail: info@belvoircastle.com.

Johnny Jet Video

Here's a 2-minute Johnny Jet Video of my trip to England (if you missed Part 1 of the trip, check out the Paris video). With high-speed the video takes about a minute to load; with dial-up, please allow up to three weeks. For more Paris tips be sure to check out the newsletter archive.

Next Week

Scotland! Stay tuned.

Happy Travels,

Johnny Jet

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