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Hola from Spain! Last week we were in northwest Portugal (here’s the link to the archives); this week we make our way across the border and up the Galician coast. If you want to see lots of pictures and learn about this part of the world, then arriba arriba! If you’re in a hurry or have ADD, don’t worry; there’s a 2-minute Johnny Jet video at the end of this week’s story.

VIANA DO CASTELO, PORTUGAL
My last afternoon in Portugal was spent in Viana do Castelo. This historic town was founded in 1258, and is located along the River Lima. There is not a lot of tourism here, but thanks to new luxury hotels like Casa Melo Alvim (located in the center of town in an eco-friendly 1509 building) and Hotel Flor De Sal (a few minutes away on the beach, with a "W"-like atmosphere), I wonder how much longer this place has before the crowds come. Walking around the celebrated square and through the narrow cobblestone streets is very relaxing. For dinner I took a 10-minute ride to the top of the Santa Luzia hill, so I could see the neo-Byzantine church I had admired from below (the church stares down on Viana do Castelo). The views, and eucalyptus- and pine-scented air reminded me a lot of the Bay Area in Northern California. A few hundred yards away was another reminder of San Francisco: a 1918 hotel with a façade similar to the Fairmont. Pousada de Viana do Castelo - Monte de Santa Luzia is one of Portugal’s 43 Pousadas. Pousada is the name of an upscale (4 to 5 stars) Portuguese hotel chain that is owned by the government but run by a private group. Pousadas can be found in historic castles, manor houses, former monasteries, palaces and convents. If you don’t stay at this 50 room Pousada, at least have dinner and enjoy the views and elegance. Pousada de Viana do Castelo; tel: 351- 258-800-370.

POUSADA D. DINIZ
After dinner, my small tour group and I drove 30 minutes to Vila Nova de Cerveira, where we spent the night in Pousada D. Diniz. This Pousada was in a 13th century manor house with huge private wings (we had a cozy eight-bedroom place to ourselves -- but it had thin walls and no internet). I slept well, and before calling it a night I stepped out on my own patio to enjoy the views of the Minho River. The Spanish spell it Miño – it’s the border of Portugal and Spain. It was so cool to be staring out only a short distance, seeing lights shimmering in houses and on cars, knowing those people were in another country. It was mind-boggling to think they have a different culture and different language -- and the next day I would witness it first hand. What a beautiful thing travel is! Pousada D. Diniz, 4920-296 Vila Nova de Cerveira; tel.: 351-251-708120.

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