St. Lucia

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Destination: St. Lucia
An idyllic island getaway in the heart of the Caribbean.
By Juliet Pennington

St. Lucia was never on the list of Caribbean islands I was eager to visit. It's not that I'd heard anything negative about it, it's just that there were other islands that I'd read about and that had been recommended to me that I was more interested in visiting. But after a recent trip to this island 1,300 miles southeast of Florida, I am now eager to re-visit and plan on doing so in the very near future. Not only were the views spectacular, the beaches pristine and the accommodations luxurious, but the islanders could not have been nicer. From the moment I arrived, I felt like a welcome guest rather than a tourist whose presence had to be endured. While there are many factors that weigh into the personality and color of a place, the locals are key. I can't recall meeting one person, whether a tour guide, shopkeeper or beach attendant, who wasn't extremely friendly and eager to please.

"Lush" is often used to describe this 238-square-mile island, which is 27 miles long and 14 miles wide. With its mountainous terrain, the island's landscapes are breathtaking. Appearing to rise out of the ocean on the southwest side of the island are two of the Caribbean's most famous landmarks, the "twin peaks" -- Gros Piton and Petit Piton. They are spectacular, especially at sunset when they form a picturesque border to a fading orange sky as the sun disappears at their inner bases. Adding to the island's natural beauty are tropical rainforests, botanical gardens and one of the world's only drive-in volcanoes that features sulphur springs, known for their mystical and medicinal qualities.

GETTING THERE
English is the official language of St. Lucia, but many St. Lucians also speak an engaging French-based Creole patois. Located about 21 miles south of its nearest neighbor, Martinique and 90 miles northwest of Barbados, St. Lucia is part of the Windward Island chain, a sub-group of islands in the West Indies. It hasn't always been the easiest island to get to, but American Airlines recently began a daily direct flight service from New York's JFK airport to St. Lucia. I was on the inaugural flight and found the less-than-four-hour trip on a Boeing 757 to be enjoyable and stress-free, which is just how a flight should be. Not having to make a pit stop in Atlanta or Miami -- or anywhere, for that matter -- was a plus.

THINGS TO DO
Unlike some of its fellow Caribbean islands, verdant St. Lucia still has a kind of rustic feel to it. Even though pockets of development are emerging, the island is still largely green and unspoiled. You can drive for miles and see nothing but beautiful scenery against the backdrop of a sparkling turquoise sea. That said, this bucolic setting does not mean there's nothing to do on the island. That's hardly the case. While there are plenty of laidback, leisure activities (think beaches, spas, etc.), there are also numerous outdoor, active pursuits including hiking (try the climb up Gros Piton, which at 2,480 feet above sea level provides quite the workout), biking, horseback riding, golf, scuba diving, snorkeling and numerous water sports. For mountain bike enthusiasts, one of the sweetest spots on the island is Anse Mamin, an 18th-century sugar plantation that's been transformed into a twisted network of trails. In colonial times, the 500-acre plantation produced sugar, molasses, cocoa and rum. The iron vats in which cane juice was once boiled to make syrup remain, as do the crumbling ruins of a stone chapel. The bike center offers rental bikes and guides and with so much to see and such a rich history, riding with one of the friendly and knowledgeable "rangers" isn't a bad idea. As far as gastronomical pleasures go, I was in heaven. St. Lucia boasts some amazing restaurants that not only have delicious, fresh food and ambiance that can't be beat, but the service was much like the demeanor of the islanders: genuinely friendly and accommodating. Some of my favorites: Breakfast at the poolside Ti Banane at the Coco Palm Hotel, lunch at Ti Kaye Village Resort and at Jade Mountain and dinner at Tao, Le Sport Body Holiday's signature restaurant (reservations a must) and at the intimate Rainforest Hideaway at Discovery at Marigot Bay. Even though I didn't eat at Dasheene, the terrace restaurant at Ladera Resort, I went there for drinks one evening and found the relaxing, picturesque scene was all it was cracked up to be -- and then some. Don't leave St. Lucia without checking out this open-air restaurant in the evening. The close-up views of the Pitons at sunset are simply spectacular.

COTTON BAY VILLAGE
I stayed at two resorts during my trip to St. Lucia, but visited a few others. Cotton Bay, where I stayed the first night, is brand new and is still a work in progress. Located in Cap Estate, on the northeast coast of the island, Cotton Bay is a collection of luxury holiday villas, townhouses and apartments set amidst a village resort. My room was clean, spacious and comfortable, but a few kinks (like a closet light that didn't work and, upon my arrival, a shower with water temperature that couldn't be regulated) had to be worked out. The Elemis bath products were top-notch and the resort's large pool, with built-in lounging platforms, was clear and refreshing. The property's Casuarina Spa was the highlight of my stay at Cotton Bay Village. Signature treatments include the banana, yogurt and nutmeg wrap and the Vichy shower massage, as well as the one I opted for, the Rasul mud treatment. After being given an array of different colored, mineral-rich muds, I slathered them all over my body and positioned myself on a warm, tiled, rounded bench in a dimly-lit steam room. As the steam filtered out and streams of different-colored light rays beamed down from the ceiling, I could feel the mud's absorption into my skin. After about 15 minutes, a light shower gently washed away the mud, leaving my skin feeling soft and revitalized, with a clear glow. Casuarina literature claims that this is the only spa in the Caribbean that offers this traditional Arabian body treatment, which can be done on your own, with a partner, or, even more fun, with a group of girlfriends. Doubles start at $344. Cotton Bay Village, PO Box 437, Castries, Saint Lucia, West Indies, Tel: 001 (758) 456 5700.

DISCOVERY AT MARIGOT BAY
Discovery at Marigot Bay is the resort where I spent most of my time while visiting St. Lucia. Overlooking a bay that writer James A. Michener described as "the most beautiful bay in the Caribbean," this contemporary 57-suite, 67-room resort could not be situated in a more idyllic setting. The rooms and suites, nestled into the hillside, are part of a $60 million renovation project that includes a 40-slip marina and a village complete with stores and restaurants. It is clear that no expense was spared. My large suite had an oversized four-poster bed that couldn't have been more comfortable. The modern, yet traditional design and furnishings included rich, red-toned Brazilian cherry hardwood floors, a spacious dark-wood kitchen and sleek but comfortable furniture. The two balconies provided ideal lounging areas in which to relax and watch the yachts gracefully maneuver in the harbor below. The reception area at Discovery at Marigot Bay is welcoming and full of surprises, including the Pink Snail Bar, where a projection of a large, pink neon snail scrolls across the wall -- this, in reference to the original Dr. Doolittle movie from the mid-1960s, which was filmed, in part, in Marigot. The two large pink glass chandeliers add an edgy, contemporary feel to the atmosphere, which is contrasted by the rustic Hurricane Hole bar, once a popular yacht crowd and celebrity hangout that has been restored to its original glory. To get to Discovery's beach, guests need to take a short shuttle boat ride across the harbor. While it is not one of the largest or most picturesque beaches on the island, it was relaxing and enjoyable nonetheless. Some of the guests with whom I spoke said they took cars (motorists drive on the left side of the road) or water taxis to some of the more popular island bathing spots (such as Jalousie Beach). Discovery at Marigot Bay also has a boutique spa called Lapli. I didn't get the chance to indulge in any treatments there, but those who did said they were heavenly. Each treatment room, designed in blues and greens to reflect the colors of the sky and sea, has its own private deck with an open-air shower. There is also a Zen garden with massage cabanas and Japanese-style wooden soaking tubs. Doubles start at $316. Discovery at Marigot Bay, PO Box MG 7227, Marigot, Saint Lucia, West Indies, Tel: 1-758-458-5300.

OTHER PLACES TO STAY
While I didn't stay at Ti Kaye Village Resort, (Doubles start at $175; Tel: 758-456-8101) located on the island's serene west coast, I did eat there and check out the French Creole, gingerbread-style bungalows. I was not surprised to learn that Ti Kaye (meaning "small house" in patois) Village Resort has won many awards for its secluded, peaceful surroundings, astonishing views and cozy, comfortable cottages – some of which have private plunge pools outside. On the veranda is a hammock built for two and an awesome private outdoor garden shower. A nice little touch: When guests arrive, they're greeted by an array of flowers scattered on their beds, with a welcome greeting spelled out with flower petals.

I also did not stay at Anse Chastanet Resort or the new Jade Mountain, set atop the highest point of Anse Chastanet, located near the western coastal town of Soufriere. However, I was fortunate enough to visit them. Anse Chastanet's lush tropical surroundings are breathtaking and provide a heavy dose of inspiration for visiting artists whose works are displayed throughout the resort as murals on guest room walls. The resort recently opened an art gallery that displays a variety of artworks by local and international artists. Of Anse Chastanet's 49 individually designed rooms, 37 are scattered on the hillside and 12 are nestled in a tropical garden at beach level. The resort's owner, architect Nick Troubetzkoy, uses local woods and other island products in the room decor and furnishings. Jade Mountain (Doubles start at $950; Tel: 800-223-1108) is simply magnificent. Designed by Troubetzkoy, the resort-within-a-resort features buildings whose exteriors are made of rough stone and curve into the hillside for sweeping panoramic views and utmost privacy. Towering spires dot the landscape and large plank-like pedestrian bridges lead guests to the louvered wooden doors in the upper-floor suites. What awaits those inside is unbelievable. Guests basically walk into the great outdoors. With one large, open living space and no fourth wall, the room provides a window to a landscape that includes the sea and the Pitons and is almost surreal. Add to that private infinity pools that seemingly flow into the Caribbean Sea and there's no reason to ever leave the "sanctuary," as the rooms are called. In addition to the 24 infinity pool sanctuaries at Jade Mountain, there are five sky Jacuzzi suites located at the resort's lower hillside level. Spacious and open to the elements, the rooms are the same as the others only without infinity pools.

SHOPPING
For those who enjoy shopping, the 100-year-old multi-block market in Castries, the island's capital, is chock-full of vendors selling everything from spices to island-made handbags and jewelry boxes. Other shopping areas include the duty-free J. Q. Mall in Rodney Bay and the Caribelle batik studio, where visitors can watch artists design apparel. You'll also find local artisans and hawkers who sell their wares from their boats. Local currency is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$2.74 = $1USD), but US and other major currencies are readily accepted for exchange at local banks.

MORE THINGS TO DO
St. Lucia is also known for its many festivals, golf tournaments and other events that draw large crowds. I happened to be there for Showtime in Paradise, a boxing event held at the Beausejour Cricket Ground and attended by about 40,000 people. It was clearly the social event of the season, featuring heavyweight standouts Joel Abel and Teke Oruh and middleweight contenders Andre Ward and Roger Cantrell. I'm not a big boxing fan, but it was difficult not to get caught up in the excitement. It's a must-attend outing for islanders and tourists alike.

The annual St. Lucia Jazz Festival, one of the most well known of its kind in the world, is held every May and has been attended by the likes of Wynton Marsalis, Santana, John Legend and George Benson. The Dennery Fish Festival is held in June and Carnival is celebrated in June and July.

While there is always something going on in St. Lucia, there are ample opportunities to do nothing -- and this is one beautiful, peaceful island to do just that.

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All information presented here is accurate at the time of publication but prices, dates and other details are all subject to change. Please confirm all information before making any travel arrangements.

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